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Gunsmither 10/22 Barrel Block Installation Guide

Here's a step by step guide on installing the Gunsmither Block. With pictures! 

1. Make sure that your firearm is unloaded!! 

2. Check again... remove the magazine. Cycle the action. Lock the bolt back. Inspect the chamber. Touch the chamber. You know the drill.

(If you don't know the drill, this installation may be beyond where you are at right now. Do some more research, get more familiar with your firearm, READ YOUR OWNERS MANUAL, etc. All modifications and and installations are done at your own risk. If you have any doubt, let us install it for you or take it to your local qualified gunsmith. Neither Brimstone Gunsmithing, Gunsmither Tools, or Ruger will be in any way liable for you shooting yourself, the neighbors cat, or for any damage to your firearm. That's all on you bud...) 

Now that that's out of the way... 

3. Remove the barrel band (if any), stock, and trigger group from the firearm. You can also remove the bolt assembly if you want. And you should see something like this...

Remove the factory V-Block. The screws should take a 5/32" Allen key, and if you can find a ball end one, that will make this job much easier. 



4. With the factory V-Block removed, you should see just a touch of the barrel dovetail sticking out past the end of the receiver, as is visible in this picture. If (for some reason) the end of the dovetail is shorter than the receiver, you'll need to file down the receiver a little until the end of the dovetail is visible, or go with Option #2 (keep reading here, but Option #2 is covered at the bottom of the page.)  







5. MAKING SURE THE BARREL IS PRESSED FULLY INTO THE RECEIVER, scribe a line across the barrel dovetail, flush with the end of the receiver. The more precise, clean, and square you can be with this line the better, so take your time. Keeping the barrel pressed in will be easier if you have removed the bolt assembly.

Here you can see the barrel has been pulled out slightly, and you can just see the scratch mark across the point. 


































6. You want to file off the end of the dovetail, up to that line you scribed. You want to leave the line however; don't cut away the line, just up to the line. The idea is to create a small flat spot for the block to rest against, which is still just slightly longer than the receiver. This will allow the block to exert solid pressure straight to the rear, without pulling down or pushing up. 

You also want to be sure to cut the flat spot as square as possible, both to the line you scribed previously, and top to bottom. 



7. This picture shows the flat spot and how little material you need to remove. It's not a bad idea to lay tape in the dovetail as shown, to help protect the barrel finish. You'll want to use a fine single-cut file, and if you have a safe edge file (as in the picture above), so much the better. But obviously that's not a requirement, the tape and safe edge file are strictly to protect the cosmetics of a surface you cannot see when assembled. You do with that information as you like. 



8. Start installing the Gunsmither Block. Don't tighten anything down at this point. You'll want to install it with the stamped "Gunsmither TM" facing out, and the socket end of the set screw facing down. Obviously...

It's not a bad idea to put a little anti-seize on the screws before you put them in, especially since you're running steel screws into an aluminum part. That said, I've never really seen these seize up and they don't do it from the factory, so if you don't have anti-seize, don't stress it. Conversely, you can also use a little purple loctite if you are worried about them coming loose. 




 9. If you removed the bolt, stick it back in. You don't need to worry about the charging handle, just the bolt, and make sure that the extractor is centered nicely in it's cut in the barrel. Rifle function isn't affected by the barrel being clocked a little one way or the other, all that really matters is that the extractor isn't going to bind in it's slot. However if you're running iron sights, you do have a little wiggle room in the extractor slot (if needed) to get the sights square. 

At this point, snug down the two barrel screws. You don't need to reef on them, just snug them down until they stop moving. 


10. Remove the set screw in the Gunsmither Block and put just a drop of blue loctite in the hole. You can put the loctite on the back of the set screw when done, but I feel that this holds a little better. Install the set screw, running it in until it touches the barrel. You'll want to snug it down, but again, don't reef on it. The feel should be just like tightening down a screw and it feels 'done.' 





And that's it! When you're finished, the Gunsmither block should be tilted forward at about a 1 or 2 degree angle. This picture exaggerates the angle, it doesn't look quite like this when done, but you get the idea. Happy Shooting! 





Option #2: If the dovetail piece point does not stick out past the receiver, you can use a piece of round drill stock in the dovetail, and let the gunsmith block sit against that. You'll need to experiment with different sizes of round stock until you find the diameter which causes the Gunsmither block to tilt just slightly forward. The round stock could be a drill blank, drill shank, welding rod... really any round stock of the correct size. If you want, you can also epoxy in the round stock to help hold it in place.

You can also build up a whole new surface with some sort of thick epoxy or gunsmithing bedding compound. Just be sure to coat the receiver, Gunsmither Block, and action screws with release agent, fill the dovetail with compound, and allow to set. 

If you have any questions about this product, don't hesitate to ask!