A lot of you guys DIY your own triggers, for which you have our support and whole-hearted encouragement! Seriously, we do a LOT of trigger jobs, it doesn't hurt our feelings any if you want to do your own... Or maybe you have drop in internals from another manufacturer, and the trigger pull now feels pretty good, but that horrible trigger and trigger return system are just crippling your otherwise stellar work.
Well fear not. We have the solution for you.
These triggers are machined from billet aluminum (not cast) and then individually Cerakoted in your choice of colors. Cerakote is an industry standard baked on ceramic coating which looks great, and will significantly outlast most CCW holster trends. Like, by a lot.
But this trigger is so much more than bragging rights (billet not MIM'd yeah!) and cosmetics. We have dealt with a lot of aftermarket triggers over the years from a wide variety of sources, and it is surprising to us how many of them are radically undersized. They are often shiny and cheap, but they are also loose and, if anything, hurt the actual performance of the trigger. With these, every trigger will need to be fitted to the trigger housing. It's not significant, but it's enough that when it's done the trigger legitimately feels good under your finger.
However, if you only install this trigger, but don't use the torsion spring, you are missing out on 75% of the point. This trigger is designed to accept a torsion spring, fitted on the left side of the trigger, to replace the current trigger return system. The factory plunger is actually drilled at an angle in relation to the rear face of the trigger, which means that as you press the trigger, that plunger both binds in it's hole, and slides across the rear face of the trigger. A great deal of the 'noise' you feel (particularly in the older aluminum housings) is from that factory trigger return system.
To use this new torsion spring, you will have to drill and tap a small hole in the side of the trigger housing. A special set screw goes in there with a notch cut in it to accept one leg of the torsion spring. The spring mounts on the trigger itself, so there is literally no sliding or moving parts in this system; merely one spring flexing and relaxing. The factory trigger return hole is then drilled out and tapped as well, and an overtravel stop is installed in that hole. This looks infinitely cleaner than the common screw through the trigger blade option, and also leaves the trigger face clean and smooth under your finger.
It's not especially complicated to fit the trigger and install the set screws, but you should know what you're getting into before you start. We will have some videos uploaded within a week or so, which will walk you through the process with tons of tips and tricks.
These triggers are available in Standard Width and Full Width options, with all the same colors as our standard trigger work. The standard width option is actually slightly wider than the factory trigger, and because it is flat across it's face (rather than curved in both directions like the factory), it feels quite a bit wider. The Full Width trigger is ridiculously wide (we'll get some good pictures up soon), and so we recommend that unless you KNOW for a fact that you like really wide triggers, order the standard width.
These are available in three kit options. The first is just the trigger. Use this one if, for whatever reason, you are planning on running it with the factory trigger return system. The next option is for the trigger with the new trigger return spring, it's set screw, and an overtravel set screw. This option assumes that you already have the required #21 drill and 10-32 tap. The final option has the trigger, trigger spring and screws, and the drill and tap.
Thanks for looking, and stay tuned for more information, pictures, and videos as we move forward. And as always, don't hesitate to let us know if you have any questions or comments regarding this product!