When we first started modifying and working with GLOCK's, we took a lot of cues from the major people doing this kind of work. We did a lot of cutting, shaping, and shiny colors. They looked awesome... but there were issues, and a lot of sharp edges. Over the last several years we have spent a lot of time working with law enforcement and industry professionals trying to figure out how best to refine a GLOCK. This package is what we've come up with.
Our foremost consideration was safety and reliability. These handguns would preform well in a competition, but they are ultimately intended for law enforcement, self defense, and regular carry. We wanted to build a handgun that preformed and would be bullet-proof above all else. If it looked good too, that's just the cherry on top.
The frame is your contact patch with the gun; it's what you hang on to and interact with when you're actually shooting. It needs to fit you and it needs to stick to your hand. The most obvious part is the full grip stippling. It's intended to simulate grip tape, but without the added thickness and the sticky mess when it comes off. It wont be quite as aggressive as grip tape, but close. It's intended to provide a solid grip if your hands are wet, bloody, sweaty... but without being so sticky that you can't adjust your grip during the draw, or have it snag or wear holes in your clothing.
We also undercut the trigger guard. It doesn't look like much, but it lets you get your hand a bit higher on the firearm. Basically, if the web of your hand is high on the backstrap (as it should be) then it lets your middle finger get a little higher under the trigger guard, allowing for a more natural angle on the trigger. Also with the compact GLOCKS it can give you more room on the front strap to get all of your fingers on the grip.
Gen 4/5 Stippling
With the 4th and 5th generation of Glocks came a number of changes, most of them really good. One neat feature was that they redesigned the internals to allow a smaller grip circumference, then included a bunch of different adapters that you can snap on to change the way the firearm fits in your hand. This does raise a bit of an issue for stippling however. Whatever method you use, if you go over the seam you will permanently attach the adapter to the grip. What we do is create a clean border on the edges to allow you to swap out panels. If you do not want to run any panels, then we will just stipple the whole thing. This will give you the smallest possible grip, but you won't be able to install other panels afterwards. Basically, send it in set up as you want to run it, either with the correct panel installed or no panel at all, and we will stipple it as needed.
We don't skeletonize the slides. Watch the upcoming video for more details, but in short it just increases felt recoil and invites junk to get trapped in the innards. Yup, it looks cool and we've drooled with the best of them. But no gun that we carry or regularly shoot will ever be skeletonized. That doesn't mean we don't modify the heck out of them. Especially with serrations. From the factory the rear serrations are shallow and dull, and they are virtually useless if your hand is wet or, heaven forbid, bloody. And those shallow cuts are all you have to load the firearm, clear a malfunction, or drop the slide on a fresh magazine.
So what we do is cut the rear serrations slightly deeper, slightly sharper, and add one serration to the rear section. These serrations are about as extreme as you want to go; any more aggressive becomes painful over long shooting sessions. Trust us, they don't call them 'DNA collectors' for nothing. We also cut the front serrations in your choice of angled or vertical alignment. These serrations help with press checks, aesthetics, and give you a contact patch to run the firearm if you are also running a red dot in the rear, on an MOS glock for example.
Our upgraded slide work takes it a step further. The biggest functional difference is the addition of angled serrations to the front edges of the slide. These help greatly with any kind of forward manipulation of the slide, which is becoming ever more important as we are adding more optics to the rear of the slide. The shaved corners of the slide help the serrations stand out, and add greatly to the cosmetics. I get it, we were just preaching about not removing any more metal than needed... but this is much less metal than punching windows in the slide, and it looks awesome. So quit judging...
We pride ourselves on our trigger work, and the Glock triggers are no exception. We will dial out about half of the pre-travel in the trigger. There has to be some for the internal safeties to still function, and so we leave just enough in there. The break is going to be significantly lighter and crisper, many times coming to a true glass-rod break (although we can't guaranty that, it is still a GLOCK after all). Regardless, the break will be greatly improved and the overtravel will be greatly reduced. That also means that you will have a vastly shorter, and still very positive, reset. There are a couple of options still on the trigger. First, there's the Apex trigger. It's a flat trigger face with a standard center trigger safety. This trigger does NOT change the way the trigger behaves, it will still have the same pull weight, pretravel, break, and reset as our basic trigger work. It will change the way the trigger feels under your finger, and most people feel that it's a huge improvement. Every GLOCK owned by a Brimstone employee carries an Apex trigger, if that tells you anything...
Second option is the striker spring. By default, we use a custom made reduced weight striker spring. This greatly reduces the trigger pull weight, but it's the lightest spring that we have found to be reliable over the long term. This spring is perfect for the competition shooter, or even for home defense and duty use as long as you rigorously test it first to ensure that it will run reliably in your firearm. You can also elect to leave the factory striker spring. It'll make the trigger heavier, but you know that firearm will always ignite and reset, no matter what kind of cheap or damaged round you shove in the chamber.
Sights are such a personal issue that we don't automatically include any with this package. We can make recommendations, or you can let us know if you have a preference. Otherwise we will simply re-install the factory sights. If you include different sights with your GLOCK when you send it in, we will happily install those sights.